Sucre: The Healing

Posted on May 30, 2011


My trip began to get back on track upon my arrival in Sucre. It was an early one, and I was forced to wait for a room at the promisingly named Hostal Amigo, but after treating myself to a full English breakfast I was successfully checked-in and spent a morning sorting out essentials such as laundry, CD burning and posting a package home.

With this accomplished, I rewarded myself with a couple of lunchtime beers whilst reading Kerouac (pretentious but appropriate, though I should of course be reading The Motorcycle Diaries) in a lively gringo bar. I tackled the climb to the plaza at the top of a steep hill overlooking Sucre, and was rewarded with great views of the sunset. Upon meeting an Aussie couple and a Belgian, I embarked on a night out on the lively streets of Sucre, Bolivia´s judicial capital.

I was as a result up late the next morning, resuscitating myself with a fantastic chicken, egg and lettuce sandwich at the excellent Dutch-owned Restaurant Florin. The food was a particular highlight of Sucre, a surprise given the predictability of most Bolivian cuisine. The night before I ate a Chinese meal that put the budget Peruvian chifa to shame, and that night I was to feast on papas rellenas, hot potatoes stuffed with cheese and mince. The city itself was picturesque, quiet and walkable, with life seeming to move at a slower pace than the rest of Bolivia. A short visit to Case de Libertad, where Bolivia´s independence was formalised in 1825, was enlightening, before I toured the central market, the hub of most South American activity, for a cup of hot api. The next morning I departed for Sucre, thankful that I had taken the time to stop (and eat) in Sucre as the final stage of my recuperation after the disaster of La Paz.

Posted in: Experience, Travel